Below are two patterns for the same gloves. One is written in a way that I would like to read a pattern and the other is written in a more formal knitting pattern way. I would love any feed back (good or bad) on these patterns and if anyone tries to make them I would love to see a picture. Any comments can be left here (this is also a post about the gloves). I am hoping to figure out how to do a pdf download soon.
Fingerless Gloves Pattern
(Pattern 1 - Annie Language)
Wool type: 100% merino wool 24 stitches = 10cm, 2 x 3.75 needles, 2 x 3.75 open ended needles
1. Measurements
Take a tape measure and measure the widest part of your hand (round the knuckles), for me this is 19cm. Translate this into stitches by multiplying this measurement by 2.419 x 2.4 = 45.6
Round this up to an even number of stitches
44.5 to even number = 46
WRITE THIS NUMBER DOWN
For the rest of the pattern I will use 46 wherever you see 46 replace it with the number that you have.
2. Rib stitch for the bottom of the glove.
Start by casting on 46 stitches + 4 (2 stitches on each side for joining the glove at the end) Total 50 stitches
Row1: First 2 stitches knit (plain) then alternate the next 46 stitches knit, Purl, knit, purl and
finish with 2 knit stitches.
Row1: First 2 stitches knit (plain) then alternate the next 46 stitches knit, Purl, knit, purl and
finish with 2 knit stitches.
Row2: The next row do the first 2 stitches with purl, then alternate the next 46 stitches knit, purl, knit, purl and finish with 2 purl stitches.
Row3-20: Repeat these two rows 9 times.
Row21: 2 knit then alternate the next 46 stitches knit, purl, knit, purl and finish with 2 knit.
Tips for rib stitch:For Knit – pull the wool to the back of the needle for knit
For Purl – pull the wool to the front of the needle for purl.
To check that you are doing the right stitch:
Purl – If you need to do a purl stitch, the stitch you are about to pick up has the wool running horizontally, like a purl
Knit – If you need a knit stitch the stitch you are about to pick up looks like two pieces of wool running vertically down.
3. Main body of the Glove
If you are using your own sizing you will need to do a bit of maths at the beginning here but it is pretty easy maths.
Take your stitch number 46 then take away 22 stitches. 46 - 22 = 24
Row22: Purl 2 stitches, then knit 24 (the number of stitches you just worked out) stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 6 (cable1), purl 6, knit 6 (cable 2), purl 2, and then finish with 2 purl stitches.
Row23: Knit 2, knit 2, purl 6 (cable 2), knit 6, purl 6 (cable 1), knit 2, purl 24, knit 2
Row24: Purl 2, knit 24, purl 2, (the cable part), take a separate needle (3.75mm with two ends open), slip the next 3 stitches onto this needle and let them hang in front of the knitting, knit the next three stitches on the original needle. Take the needle dropped in front of the knitting, and knit the 3 stitches on that needle, now the knitting should be back on two needles, with all the stitches done for this row on one needle and the stitches yet to be knitted on the other needle (cable 1). Now purl 6, then the next cable, slip 3 stitches onto a separate needle and drop in front, knit 3 stitches, pick up the dropped needle and knit another 3 stitches (cable 2), purl 2 and the finish with 2 more purl.
Row25: Knit 2, knit 2, purl 6 (cable 2), knit 6, purl 6 (cable 1), knit 2, purl 24, knit 2
Row26: Purl 2, knit 24, purl 2, knit 6 (cable1), purl 6, knit 6 (cable 2), purl 2, purl 2
Row27: Knit 2, knit 2, slip the next 3 stitches onto a separate needle and drop behind the knitting, purl the next 3 stitches. Pick up the dropped needle and purl those 3 stitches (cable 2), knit 6, slip the next 3 stitches onto a separate needle and drop behind the knitting, purl the next 3 stitches. Pick up the dropped needle and purl those 3 stitches (cable 1), knit 2, purl 24, knit 2.
You now have one cable twist.
Rows28-51: Repeat the previous 6 rows, 4 times.
4. Making the hole for the thumb
You should have just finished row 51 and this next part is the same idea, but for the next 6 rows we are going to put a hole between the cables for your thumb.
Row52: Purl 2, knit 24, purl 2, knit 6, cast off the next 6 stitches (the base of the thumb hole), knit 6, purl 2 and finish with 2 purl stitches.
Now we are going to split the knitting into two parts with the cast off 6 stitches as the dividing line. Part a, is the last 10 stitches of the knitting. Part b, this is the first 34 stitches. (The "missing" 6 stitches are the ones you cast off).
Part a (rows 53 - 57)
Using a fourth needle, part b is left on the original needle, part a is now on the second needle, (the third needle with two ends open is the one being used for the cables), and the fourth needle is now used to knit this row onto.
Row53: knit 4, purl 6 (cable 2)
Row54: Slip 3 stitches on to the separate needle and drop in front of the knitting, knit 3, take the separate needle and knit those 3 stitches (cable 2), purl 2, and then finish with 2 purl stitches.
Row55: Knit 4, purl 6 (cable 2).
Row56: Knit 6 (cable 2), purl 4
Row57: Knit 4, slip 3 stitches on a separate needle drop behind the knitting, purl 3, pick up the separate needle and purl 3 stitches (cable 2).
Now your knitting is uneven, part a is knitted to row 57 and part b is only knitted to row 52. Part a is on the fourth needle, and part b is on the original needle. A small length of wool (10cm) needs to be left between this part (a) and the next part (b) before continuing with the knitting (this is so that you don’t knit together the length of 6 stitches over the hole before it is time). Leave part a on the fourth needle and knit part b with the original needles.
Part b (rows 53 - 57)
Row53: Purl 6 (cable 1), making sure that before the first stitch of this part and after the last stitch of part a there is a length of 10cm of wool joining them. Knit 2, purl 24, knit 2.
Row54: Purl 2, knit 24, purl 2. Slip the next 3 stitches on to a separate needle, drop the needle in front of the knitting, knit the next 3 stitches, pick up the dropped needle and knit these 3 stitches (cable 1).
Row55: Purl 6 (cable 1), knit 2, purl 24, knit 2
Row56: Purl 2, knit 24, purl 2, knit 6 (cable 1)
Row57: Slip 3 stitches onto a separate needle, drop behind the knitting, purl the next 3 stitches, pick up the dropped needle and purl those 3 stitches (cable 1), knit 2, purl 24, knit 2.
Joining the two parts together
Row58: Purl 2, knit 24, purl 2, knit 6 (cable 1), cast on 6 stitches, knit 6 (cable 2), purl 2 and finish with 2 purl stitches.
5. Finishing main body of glove
One more cable twistRow59: 2 purl stitches, then knit 24, purl 2, knit 6 (cable1), purl 6, knit 6 (cable 2), purl 2, and finish with 2 purl stitches
Row60: Knit 4, purl 6 (cable 2), knit 6, purl 6 (cable 1), knit 2, purl 24, knit 2
Row61: Purl 2, knit 24, purl 2, slip the next 3 stitches onto this needle and let them hang in front of the knitting, knit the next three stitches on the original needle. Take the needle dropped in front of the knitting, and knit 3 stitches (cable 1). Now purl 6, then the next cable, slip 3 stitches onto a separate needle and drop in front, knit 3 stitches, pick up the dropped needle and knit another 3 stitches (cable 2), purl 2 and finish with 2 purl stitches.
Row63: Knit 4, purl 6 (cable 2), knit 6, purl 6 (cable 1), knit 2, purl 24, knit 2
Row64: Purl 2, knit 24, purl 2, knit 6 (cable1), purl 6, knit 6 (cable 2), purl 4
Row65: Knit 4, slip the next 3 stitches onto a separate needle and drop behind the knitting, purl the next 3 stitches. Pick up the dropped needle and purl those 3 stitches (cable 2), knit 6, slip the next 3 stitches onto a separate needle and drop behind the knitting, purl the next 3 stitches. Pick up the dropped needle and purl those 3 stitches (cable 1). Knit 2, purl 24, knit 2.
6. Final rib stitch
Row66: Knit 2 then alternate the next 46 stitches knit, purl, knit, purl and finish with 2 knit stitches.
Row67: Purl 2, then alternate the next 46 stitches knit, purl, knit, purl and finish with 2 purl stitches.
Row68 - 69: Repeat these two rows once
Cast off.
7. Thumb hole
Cast on 22 stitches
Row1: Alternate the next 22 stitches knit, purl, knit, purl…
Row2 - 6: repeat the previous row 5 times
Cast off
8. Joining the pieces
a) Main body of glove
- Face the knitting the "wrong" way around (with the cables pointing away from you)
- Fold the knitting together, Thread some of the wool into a needle and sew the first two columns of each side together,
b) Thumb piece
- Fold the thumb piece in half and sew the sides together
c) Thumb piece to the main body
- Sew the round edge of the thumb piece to the hole created in the main body of the glove
Fingerless Gloves Pattern
(Pattern 2 - "knitting" pattern)
Wool type: 100% merino wool 24 stitches = 10cm, 2 x 3.75 needles, 2 x 3.75 open ended needles
1. Measurements
Small: 46
Medium: 50
Large: 54
For the rest of the pattern I will use 46 wherever you see 46 replace it with the number that you have.
(Pattern written for the direction at the start of each row)
2. Rib stitch for the bottom of the glove.
Start by casting on 46 stitches + 4 (2 stitches on each side for joining the glove at the end) Total 50 stitches
Cast on 50 stitchesRow1: k2 p2 (repeat 24) k2
Row2: p2 k2 (repeat 24) p2
Row3 - 20: Repeat these two rows 9 times.
Row21: k2 p2 (repeat 24) k2
This gives you the rib stitch at the bottom of the glove.
Cb3 = slip the next three stitches on to cable needle and leave at back of the work
Cf3= slip the next three stitches on to the cable needle and leave at the front of the work
Cpk3 = pick up stiches from cable needle and knit those 3 back onto original needle
Cpp3 = pick up stitches from cable needle and purl those 3 back onto the original needle
3. Main body of the Glove
Row22: p2 k24 p2 k6 p6 k6 p4
Row23: k4 p6 k6 p6 k2 p24 k2
Row24: p2 k24 p2 Cf3 k3 Cpk3 p6 Cf3 k3 Cpk3 p4
Row25: k4 p6 k6 p6 k2 p24 k2
Row26: p2 k24 p2 k6 p6 k6 p4
Row27: k4 Cb3 p3 Cpp3 k6 Cb3 p3 Cpp3 k2 p24 k2
Row28 –51: Repeat the previous 6 rows 4 times
4. Making the hole for the thumb.
Row52: p2 k24 p2 k6 cast off 6 stitches k6 p4
Now we are going to split the knitting into two parts with the cast off 6 stitches as the dividing line. Part a, is the last 10 stitches of the knitting. Part b, this is the first 34 stitches. (The "missing" 6 stitches are the ones you cast off).Part a (rows 53 - 57)
Using a fourth needle, part b is left on the original needles, part a is now on the second needle, the third needle with two ends open is being used for the cables, and the fourth needle is now used to knit this row onto.
Row53: k4 p6
Row54: cf3 k3 cpk3 p4
Row55: k4 p6
Row56: k6 p4
Row57: k4 cb3 p3 cpp3
Now your knitting is uneven, part a is knitted to row 57 and part b is only knitted to row 52. Part a is on the fourth needle, and part b is on the other needle. A small length of wool (10cm) needs to be left before continuing with the knitting. Leave part a on the fourth needle and knit part b with the original needles.
Part b (rows 53 - 57)
Row53: p6 k2 p24 k2
Row54: p2 k24 p2 cf3 k3 cpk3
Row55: p6 k2 p24 k2
Row56: p2 k24 p2 k6
Row57: cb3 p3 cpp3 k2 p24 k2
Joining the two parts back together
Row58: p2 k24 p2 k6 cast on 6 stitches k6 p4
5. Finishing main body of glove
Row59: p2 k24 p2 k6 p6 k6 p4
Row60: k4 p6 k6 p6 k2 p24 k2
Row61: p2 k24 p2 cf3 k3 cpk3 p6 cf3 k3 cpk3 p4
Row62: k4 p6 k6 p6 k2 p24 k2
Row63: p2 k24 p2 k6 p6 k6 p4
Row64: k4 cb3 p3 cpp3 k6 cb3 p3 cpp3 k2 p24 k2
6. Final rib stitch
Row65: k2 p2 (repeat 24) k2
Row66: p2 k2 (repeat 24) k2
Row67: Repeat row65 and row 66
Cast off
7. Thumb hole
Cast on 22 stitches
Row1: k2 p2 (repeat 10)
Row2-6: repeat Row1 5 times
Cast off
8. Joining the pieces
a) Main body of glove
- Face the knitting the "wrong" way around (with the cables pointing away from you)
- Fold the knitting together, Thread some of the wool into a needle and sew the first two columns of each side together.
b) Thumb piece
- Fold the thumb piece in half and sew the sides together
c) Thumb piece to the main body
- Sew the round edge of the thumb piece to the hole created in the main body of the glove
